Rogers Pass avalanche conditions update

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Good skiing today in MacDonald West Shoulder and NRC Gully. I went with Audrey, Matt and Stu, three Banff locals. Audrey’s first day on a split board and she did great! As did the two fellows. There’s been a large avalanche down the main path of the run and quite a few skiers laying down lines between that and NRC. So it’s a bit tracked out right now and I wouldn’t go back to that spot til it snows again. My friend Alison was up on Dome Glacier and she said it was boot top and fine quality skiing. Read on for a synopsis on what seems to be going on with the snowpack right now.

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Best November since ’98

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Made another run to Rogers Pass, this time with a Goldenite crew: Tree, Wayne, Deana and Alison. Awesome skiing. Some over the head shots in Teddy Bear trees and lower ski pen but super creamy skiing in McGill Shoulder the next day.

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First Ski Day

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Puff Daddy

It was Greg’s Birthday today so that meant a mission to the Pass. The skiing was great and we had  a fun day.

Originally we thought about ice climbing but it was -14 in the morning, which would have meant breaking the -12 rule: I don’t go ice climbing if it is colder than -12. Living in Banff that conveniently means I don’t have to go ice climbing a whole lot.  Continue reading →

Aftonroe – First Ascent

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Photo-topo

Guide’s Rock, Aftonroe.
5.7, 9 pitches

Rack: 7 quickdraws and 2 long slings.

This climb is on the right-hand buttress of Guides Rock (Take it for Granite area). Aftonroe is the furthest line of bolts on the right side of the buttress, beside the climb For Sure and just before where the cliff becomes more broken. The first bolt is about 5 m up on excellent grey rock and the first anchor is on a ledge just above a tree and just below a short orange wall. Continue reading →

Mt Cline North Ridge

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Mt Cline North Ridge

Alpine Grade D-, 5.7, AI 3-

Rack: wires, your favourite 5 or more cams, a few pitons, ice screws, 6-8 long runners

The ridge from the bivy

This is an interesting mixed climb that would be very popular if it were in the Lake Louise group. There is a lot of loose rock but where it gets steep the rock quality is better. In dry conditions or seasons a lot of the ice gullies we climbed may disappear although it seems like you may be able to climb rock instead. The rock climbing could be harder or more serious than what we encountered if you don’t climb the ice pitches.  Continue reading →

The Lake Louise Traverse – New Ski Traverse (May 2011)

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The Lake Louise Ski Traverse

40 km, 3000 m elevation gain. Mark Klassen and Conrad Janzen, May 21, 2011.

Lake O’Hara parking – Narao Shoulder – Pope’s Col – Plain of Six Glaciers – Mitre Col – Paradise Valley – Wasatch Pass – Moraine Lake – Consolation Pass – Boom Lake

Early start

I’ve been looking at this traverse for a couple of years, waiting for my time off and the right conditions to coincide. With the late spring we’ve had this year it finally happened! I’d be a bit surprised if this route hasn’t been linked up before but local skiing historian Chic Scott doesn’t know anyone who has done it, so Conrad and I will claim it unless someone tells us different…  Continue reading →

Scarpa Maestrale – Gear Review

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The Scarpa Maestrale

The downhill is good...

I had my first experience with ski touring boots in 1984. They were double leather telemark boots made by Kästinger. I actually still see them kicking around here every so often and they still look good, in a kind of wool knickers and knee socks sort of way.  Continue reading →

North Rockies High Line – New Ski Traverse (April 2011)

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North Rockies High Line; April 18-16, 2011; 105 km, 7500 m of ascents

Participants: Eric Harvie, Felix Belczyk, Phillipe Gauthier, Glenn Dorey (first 3 days), David Storwick, Erica Roles, Mark Klassen

Between April 18 and 26, 2011, six of us skied a variation of the North Rockies Traverse which we dubbed the High Line. It avoids most of the bush that previous parties have had to deal with. Our route crosses 13 cols and passes, is 105 km long and involves about 7500 m of ascents.

Gearing up

Out of the 15+ ski traverses that I have completed, this one was possibly my favourite. It goes below treeline only 3 times and is very scenic. Combine that with good weather, stable snow conditions and a fun group and you have all the ingredients for a great trip.  Continue reading →

Vice President – Carcajou Glacier – New Route (October, 2010)

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Vice President, Carcajou Glacier (SW Face)

Alpine Grade AD. 4th class rock, 55 degree alpine ice. 1700 m elevation gain from Emerald Lake. 13 hrs.

Upper part of the route from President Pass

On October 14, 2010 Erica Roles and I climbed what may be a new route on The VicePresident in Yoho National Park. I would be a bit surprised if a local climber from Field had not climbed this at some time in the past but we haven’t been able to find any information on it, so we’ll claim it as ours! We called it the Carcajou Glacier route because we saw wolverine tracks on the glacier during the ascent, carcajou being the french name for wolverine.  Continue reading →