Gear list for mountaineering trips
Having the proper equipment is essential for a safe and enjoyable trip!
All gear and clothing needs to be in good condition and if new you must ensure that it fits well and you are familiar with its use.
Any soft safety gear (harnesses, slings, prussiks) older than 10 years must be replaced, or you may borrow this equipment from me.
Any hard safety gear (helmets, ice axes, crampons, carabiners) must be inspected for cracks and wear; replace it if it is worn. I recommend replacing hard gear that is more than 10 years old, or you may borrow this equipment from me.
If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me; I may have some of the items you require available for you to borrow.
Climbing gear
Boots
A lighter weight mountaineering boot is appropriate for easy and moderate glacier and ridge routes (Mt Athabasca, Mt Hector, Mt Victoria, etc.), or alpine rock climbs with trail or glacier approaches (Eisenhower Tower, Bugaboos, Rogers Pass peaks, etc.). For some of the easiest routes and for the glacier travel course a stiff, mostly leather, waterproof backpacking boot with full ankle support and a stiff, lug sole is appropriate. Mostly fabric hiking shoes with bendy soles will not work. If you are uncertain that you have the appropriate footwear, please send a photo of your boots and we can discuss. Here is a photo of a typical hiking boot that will work for the glacier travel course.
For steeper snow and ice climbs a full shank mountaineering boot is required (Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc.).
I do not have boots to borrow or rent. Options for boot rental are: Gear Up (Canmore), Wilson Sports (Lake Louise).
Crampons
These need to fit your boot well – when fitted properly they will stick to your boot without the straps or bindings.
I require all clients to have anti-balling plates on their crampons. No exceptions.
For easy and moderate routes, a pair of 10-point crampons are adequate.
For steep snow and ice climbs (EG Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc.), 12-point crampons are required.
I can provide crampons if required.
Ice axe
For easy and moderate routes any ice axe 50 cm or longer will suffice.
For steep snow and ice climbs (EG Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc.), a technical ice axe is required. This axe should have a drooped pick for ice climbing, be about 50-60 cm long and have a finger rest or an easily removable wrist loop.
I can supply an ice axe if required.
Helmet
Bring a helmet designed for climbing.
Your helmet needs to be free of damage.
I can supply a helmet if required.
Harness
A sit harness with a belay loop is required
Your harness needs to be free of damage and excessive wear and less than 10 years old
I can supply a harness if required.
Crevasse rescue kit
I can supply all of this if you need:
2 locking carabiners
2 non-locking carabiners
One 5m length of 6 mm prussic cord
One 120 cm sewn sling
Optional if you have it: 1 Tibloc or equivalent with locking carabiner, 1 Micro-Traction or equivalent with locking carabiner
AVALANCHE RESCUE KIT
Many trips WILL NOT require avalanche rescue equipment but it may be required for certain early or late season trips. We will discuss this at time of booking.
If we bring avalanche rescue gear, this is what is required:
Shovel
Probe
Avalanche transceiver
I can provide this equipment if required.
You DO NOT need an avalanche rescue kit for the Glacier Travel course.
Belay/rappel device & locking carabiner
I recommend the Mammut Alpine Smart but any tube-type device is fine.
I can supply a belay/rappel device if required.
Rock climbing shoes and lightweight approach shoes
In case we end up doing some rock climbs/rock peaks if weather or conditions are not conducive for alpine climbing.
I may be able to provide rock shoes for a rental fee - please inquire.
Other options for rock shoe rental are: Gear Up (Canmore), Wilson Sports (Lake Louise).
You do not need rock climbing shoes for the Glacier Travel course.
Other Equipment
Backpack
30-40 L pack for day trips
45-55 L pack for hut based trips
55-65 L pack for backcountry camp based trips
Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip protection
At the very minimum a 30 SPF sunscreen and lip protection is required. Full sunblock for your lips is recommended.
Sunglasses with wrap-around coverage and dark lenses are required.
Small first aid and repair kit
I’ll have a major first aid and repair kit but you should bring some band-aids, blister protection (include blister pads and duct tape), headache pills, head cold/antihistamine medication, cough drops, rash cream, pocket knife.
Water bottle and/or thermos
I usually carry about 1.5 - 2 L of liquids
Extendable walking pole
This should be able to collapse small enough to fit into your pack. I may have extras you can use.
Headlamp
Bring extra batteries, you may be using this for hours every morning.
Personal toilet kit
Include toilet paper, and a baggie for used paper
Hand sanitizer is required
Ear plugs (for sleeping) and wet wipes are recommended
Camera
Consider extra batteries or a portable charging unit.
Clothing systems
Socks, underwear and t-shirts
Bring one or two of each. Synthetic only, no cotton.
Long underwear top and bottoms
I like a zip-t neck for my long sleeved top. I use lightweight long-johns and a medium weight top. Synthetic only, no cotton.
Climbing pants
A soft shell fabric is highly recommended.
Softshell jacket
I like a hooded jacket, but it is not absolutely necessary. I avoid heavy fleece garments, as they are not wind-resistant and too warm for many activities. Rather, in cold conditions I will bring two thinner layers: a lightweight softshell and a second lightweight softshell or fleece.
Insulated jacket
I prefer a synthetic jacket that is lightweight, warm, and compressible. If you don’t bring one of these there is a good chance you will get cold!
Gore-tex jacket and pants
A hooded waterproof jacket and rain-proof pants are required. I prefer the lightweight Gore-tex such as Paclite or Proshell.
Hats
A warm toque
A sun hat (I prefer a Gilligan type hat)
A balaclava for stormy weather and a lightweight toque for use while walking uphill are recommended
Gloves
Warm ski-type gloves
Single gloves are OK for overnight trips but for multi-day trips, gloves with removable inners (easier to dry) are required
A lightweight pair of gloves should also be brought for warm conditions
Gaiters
Close-fitting gaiters are required so your crampons don’t snag them as easily. The shorter type gaiters seem to work well even in deeper snow conditions.
Car camping trips (EG columbia Icefields)
This is the location and camping gear required for the Glacier Travel course.
Tent or camping van or rv
I may be able to supply a tent for an extra charge.
Sleeping bag
A bag rated from to about 0 degrees Celsius is generally all that is needed for camping trips in July and August. Down or synthetic are both fine.
For trips in the spring and fall a warmer bag will be required. A bag rated to -10 C is appropriate.
Sleeping pad
Any kind will do but I prefer the thicker air mattresses such as the Thermarest Neoair XTherm or Exped SynMat UL for summer.
Street clothes and footwear
Your normal around town clothing is nice to have in the campground. Make sure you have warm layers as it can be chilly.
Cooking gear
Camp stove, pots, eating utensils.
I may be able to supply this for an extra charge.
FOOD
You are responsible for your own food unless we have arranged catering for you. Please let me know you if would like the trip to be catered.
phone
There is no cell coverage at the campground but there is at the information centre, a 5 minute drive away.
hut BASED trips
Sleeping bag
For huts a bag rated from +5 to 0 degrees Celsius is all that is needed. Down or synthetic are both fine.
Sleeping pad
NOT required, all the huts have sleeping pads with the EXCEPTION being Sapphire Col Hut where a sleeping pad is REQUIRED.
Hut/camp slippers or sandals
Only a light pair of footwear is required around the hut. Slippers, lightweight shoes or sandals are fine.
Cup/bowl/spoon
NOT required, all the huts have utensils with the EXCEPTION being Sapphire Col Hut where a cup/bowl/spoon is REQUIRED.
Batteries
Have spares for all your battery powered devices (EG headlamp).
A spare battery pack for your phone may be a good idea, especially for longer trips.
BACKPACK
45-55 litre capacity will get you up to the hut. You may want to bring a small daypack that fits into your larger backpack for the climbing days, but your larger pack may work well too.
You will need to fit food and group gear into your backpack.
FOOD
We will discuss catering options at the time of booking. No matter how we work it you will need to have enough room in your pack for carrying food.
GROUP GEAR
You will be required to carry some of the group gear (rescue equipment, climbing equipment) and you will need room in your pack to do so.
TENT Camp BASED trips (eg backcountry camping)
Sleeping bag
A bag rated from to about 0 degrees Celsius is generally all that is needed for camping trips in July and August. Down or synthetic are both fine.
For camping trips in the spring and fall, or for camps on a glacier at anytime, a warmer bag will be required. A bag rated to -10 C is appropriate.
Sleeping pad
Any kind will do but I prefer the thicker air mattresses such as the Thermarest Neoair XTherm or Exped SynMat UL for summer or the Exped DownMat 7 for winter. They are the warmest, most comfortable and least bulky option.
Hut/camp slippers or sandals
Only a light pair of footwear for off-snow camping. Slippers, lightweight shoes or sandals are fine. For camps on snow or glaciers a pair of insulated booties will be more appropriate.
Cup/bowl/spoon
Required for camping trips.
Batteries
Have spares for all your battery powered devices (EG headlamp).
A spare battery pack for your phone may be a good idea, especially for longer trips.
BACKPACK
55-65 litre capacity will get you up to the camp. You may want to bring a small daypack that fits into your larger backpack for the climbing days, but your larger pack may work well too.
You will need to fit food and group gear into your backpack.
FOOD
We will discuss catering options at the time of booking. No matter how we work it you will need to have enough room in your pack for carrying food.
GROUP GEAR
You will be required to carry some of the group gear (rescue equipment, climbing equipment) and you will need room in your pack to do so.
guide gear
I’ll provide…
Communications device (radio and/or satellite phone)
GPS, map and compass
First aid and repair kit
Emergency shelter and evacuation kit
Group climbing gear (rope etc)
Group camping gear for backcountry trips (tent, stove, fuel, etc)
An emergency communication device you will carry (InReach device)