Gear list for mountaineering trips

Having the proper equipment is essential for a safe and enjoyable trip!
All gear and clothing needs to be in good condition and if new you must ensure that it fits well and you are familiar with its use.
Any soft safety gear (harnesses, slings, prussiks) needs to be in good condition and free from damage or excessive wear. It is recommended to replace soft safety gear that is more than 10 years old. You may borrow some equipment from me.
Any hard safety gear (helmets, ice axes, crampons, carabiners) must be inspected for cracks and wear; replace it if it is worn. I recommend replacing hard gear that is more than 10 years old, or you may borrow this equipment from me.
If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me; I may have some of the items you require available for you to borrow.

THIS CLIMBING GEAR LIST IS FOR ALL DAY TRIPS AND OVERNIGHT TRIPS.

FOR OVERNIGHT TRIPS TO A HUT OR CAMP PLEASE SCROLL DOWN TO THE ADDITIONAL LISTS AT THE END.

Climbing gear

Boots

A light weight mountaineering boot such as the Scarpa Zodiac or Charmoz, or the Sportiva Trango is appropriate for easy and moderate glacier and ridge routes (Mt Athabasca, Mt Hector, Mt Victoria, etc.), or alpine rock climbs with trail or glacier approaches (Eisenhower Tower, Bugaboos, Rogers Pass peaks, etc.).
For steeper snow and ice climbs a full shank mountaineering boot such as Scarpa Mont Blanc or Sportiva Nepal is required (Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc.). These boots are also appropriate for any snow and ice climb and may be more waterproof and comfortable than lightweight boots for a long day on the glacier.
For some of the easiest routes a stiff, mostly leather, waterproof backpacking boot with full ankle support and a stiff, lug sole is appropriate. Mostly fabric hiking boots and shoes with bendy soles will not work. If you do not have any of the mountaineering boots listed above, please send a photo of your boots and we can discuss. Here is a photo of a typical hiking boot that will work for the easier glacier routes.
I do not have boots to borrow or rent. Options for boot rental are: Gear Up (Canmore), Wilson Sports (Lake Louise).

Crampons

Crampons may not be required for some alpine rock peak objectives. Please ask if you are uncertain whether they are required.
These need to fit your boot well – when fitted properly they will stick to your boot without the straps or bindings.
I require all clients to have anti-balling plates on their crampons. No exceptions.
For easy and moderate routes, a pair of 10-point crampons are adequate.
For steep snow and ice climbs (EG Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc.), 12-point crampons are required.
I can provide crampons if required.

Ice axe

An ice axe may not be required for some alpine rock peak objectives. Please ask if you are uncertain whether one is required.
For easy and moderate routes any ice axe 50 cm or longer will suffice.
For steep snow and ice climbs (EG Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc.), a technical ice axe is required. This axe should have a drooped pick for ice climbing, be about 50-60 cm long and have a finger rest or an easily removable wrist loop.
For alpine rock routes that require an ice axe (EG Bugaboos or Rogers Pass peaks) an axe less than 60 cm long is required.
I can supply an ice axe if required.

Helmet

Bring a helmet designed for climbing.
Your helmet needs to be free of damage.
I can supply a helmet if required.

Harness

A sit harness with a belay loop is required
Your harness needs to be free of damage and excessive wear and preferably less than 10 years old
I can supply a harness if required.

Crevasse rescue kit

Some alpine rock objectives will not require this equipment. Please ask if you are uncertain whether it is required.

I can supply all of this if you need:

2 locking carabiners
2 non-locking carabiners
One 5m length of 6 mm prussic cord
One 120 cm sewn sling
Optional if you have it: 1 Tibloc or equivalent with locking carabiner, 1 Micro-Traction or equivalent with locking carabiner

AVALANCHE RESCUE KIT

Many trips WILL NOT require avalanche rescue equipment but it may be required for certain early or late season trips. We will discuss this at time of booking.
If we bring avalanche rescue gear, this is what is required:
- Shovel
- Probe
- Avalanche transceiver
I can provide this equipment if required.

Belay/rappel device & locking carabiner

I recommend the Mammut Alpine Smart but any tube-type device is fine.
I can supply a belay/rappel device if required.

Rock climbing shoes and lightweight approach shoes

In case we end up doing some rock climbs/rock peaks if weather or conditions are not conducive for alpine climbing.
I may be able to provide rock shoes for a rental fee - please inquire.
Other options for rock shoe rental are: Gear Up (Canmore), Wilson Sports (Lake Louise).

Other Equipment

Backpack

30-40 L pack for day trips
45-55 L pack for hut based trips
55-65 L pack for backcountry camp based trips

Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip protection

At the very minimum a 30 SPF sunscreen and lip protection is required. Full sunblock for your lips is recommended.
Sunglasses with wrap-around coverage and dark lenses are required.

Small first aid and repair kit

I’ll have a major first aid and repair kit but you should bring some band-aids, blister protection (include blister pads and duct tape), headache pills, head cold/antihistamine medication, cough drops, rash cream, pocket knife.

Water bottle and/or thermos

I usually carry about 1.5 - 2 L of liquids

Extendable walking pole(s)

These should be able to collapse small enough to fit into your pack. I may have extras you can use.

Headlamp

Bring extra batteries, you may be using this for hours every morning.

Personal toilet kit

Include toilet paper, and a baggie for used paper
Hand sanitizer is required
Ear plugs (for sleeping) and wet wipes are recommended

Camera/phone and charger

Consider an extra battery pack and charging cable.

Clothing systems

Socks, underwear and t-shirts

Bring one or two of each. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Long underwear top and bottoms

I like a zip-t neck for my long sleeved top. I use lightweight long-johns and a medium weight top. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Climbing pants

A soft shell fabric is highly recommended.

Softshell jacket

I like a hooded jacket, but it is not absolutely necessary. I avoid heavy fleece garments, as they are not wind-resistant and too warm for many activities. Rather, in cold conditions I will bring two thinner layers: a lightweight softshell and a second lightweight softshell or fleece.

Insulated jacket

I prefer a synthetic jacket that is lightweight, warm, and compressible. If you don’t bring one of these there is a good chance you will get cold!

Gore-tex jacket and pants

A hooded waterproof jacket and rain-proof pants are required. I prefer the lightweight Gore-tex such as Paclite or Proshell.

Hats

A warm toque
A sun hat (I prefer a Gilligan type hat)
A balaclava for stormy weather and a lightweight toque for use while walking uphill are recommended

Gloves

Warm ski-type gloves
Single gloves are OK for overnight trips but for multi-day trips, gloves with removable inners (easier to dry) are required
A lightweight pair of gloves should also be brought for warm conditions

Gaiters

Gaiters may not be required for some alpine rock objectives.
Close-fitting gaiters are required so your crampons don’t snag them as easily. The shorter type gaiters seem to work well even in deeper snow conditions.

hut BASED trips

Sleeping bag

For huts a bag rated from +5 to 0 degrees Celsius is all that is needed. Down or synthetic are both fine.

Sleeping pad

NOT required, all the huts have sleeping pads with the EXCEPTION being Sapphire Col Hut where a sleeping pad is REQUIRED.

Hut/camp slippers or sandals

Only a light pair of footwear is required around the hut. Slippers, lightweight shoes or sandals are fine.

Cup/bowl/spoon

NOT required, all the huts have utensils with the EXCEPTION being Sapphire Col Hut where a cup/bowl/spoon is REQUIRED.

Batteries

Have spares for all your battery powered devices (EG headlamp).
A spare battery pack for your phone may be a good idea, especially for longer trips.

BACKPACK

45-55 litre capacity will get you up to the hut. You may want to bring a small daypack that fits into your larger backpack for the climbing days, but your larger pack may work well too.
You will need to fit food and group gear into your backpack.

FOOD

If the trip is catered by us you will need to have enough room in your pack for carrying food.
If you are providing your own food focus on lightweight and non bulky food items.

GROUP GEAR

You will be required to carry some of the group gear (rescue equipment, climbing equipment) and you will need room in your pack to do so.

TENT Camp BASED trips (eg backcountry camping)

tent

We will discuss tenting arrangements prior to the trip. We may provide tents for the group, dependant on the trip.
If providing your own tent it needs to be lightweight and compact.