Columbia Icefields Mountaineering Gear List

  • Having the proper equipment is essential for a safe and enjoyable trip!

  • All gear and clothing needs to be in good condition and if new you must ensure that it fits well and you are familiar with its use.

  • Any soft safety gear (harnesses, slings, prussiks) older than 10 years should be carefully inspected. There should be no obvious wear. Consider replacing soft gear that is more than 10 years old. You may borrow this equipment from me.

  • Any hard safety gear (helmets, ice axes, crampons, carabiners) must be inspected for cracks and wear; replace it if it is worn. You may borrow this equipment from me.

  • If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me; I may have some of the items you require available for you to borrow.

Climbing gear


Boots

  • For easy and moderate glacier routes such as the North Glacier or AA Col on Mt Athabasca: A lighter weight mountaineering boot such as the Scarpa Zodiac or Charmoz, or the Sportiva Trango will work. A heavier boot such as Scarpa Mont Blanc or Sportiva Nepal is also appropriate and may be more waterproof and comfortable for a long day on the glacier.

  • For steeper snow and ice climbs such Mt Athabasca north face routes, Silverhorn, Andromeda: A full shank mountaineering boot such as Scarpa Mont Blanc or Sportiva Nepal is required.

  • I do not have boots to borrow or rent. Options for boot rental are: Gear Up (Canmore), Wilson Sports (Lake Louise).

Crampons

  • These need to fit your boot well – when fitted properly they will stick to your boot without the straps or bindings.

  • I require all clients to have anti-balling plates on their crampons. No exceptions.

  • For easy and moderate routes, a pair of 10-point crampons are adequate.

  • For steep snow and ice climbs (EG Mt Athabasca north face routes, Silverhorn, Andromeda), 12-point crampons are required.

  • I can provide crampons if required.

Ice axe

  • For easy and moderate routes any ice axe 50 cm or longer will suffice.

  • For steep snow and ice climbs (EG Mt Athabasca north face routes, Silverhorn, Andromeda), two technical ice tools are required. They should have a drooped pick for ice climbing, be about 50-60 cm long and have a finger rest or an easily removable wrist loop.

  • I can supply an ice axe if required.

Helmet

  • Bring a helmet designed for climbing.

  • Your helmet needs to be free of damage.

  • I can supply a helmet if required.

Harness

  • A sit harness with a belay loop is required

  • Your harness needs to be free of damage and excessive wear

  • I can supply a harness if required.

Crevasse rescue kit 

I can supply all of this if you need:

  • 2 locking carabiners

  • 2 non-locking carabiners

  • One 5m length of 6 mm prussic cord

  • One 120 cm sewn sling

  • Optional if you have it: 1 Tibloc or equivalent with locking carabiner, 1 Micro-Traction or equivalent with locking carabiner

AVALANCHE RESCUE KIT

  • Many trips WILL NOT require avalanche rescue equipment but it may be required for certain early or late season trips. We will discuss this at time of booking.

  • If we bring avalanche rescue gear, this is what is required:

    • Shovel

    • Probe

    • Avalanche transceiver

  • I can provide this equipment if required. $15/day charge for avalanche transceivers.

Belay/rappel device & locking carabiner

  • A belay/rappel device is only required for the multi-pitch climbs on Athabasca north face, Silverhorn, and Andromeda. It is not required for the North Glacier or AA Col routes.

  • I can supply a belay/rappel device if required.

Other Equipment

Backpack

  • 30-40 L pack for day trips

Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip protection

  • At the very minimum a 30 SPF sunscreen and lip protection is required. Full sunblock for your lips is recommended.

  • Sunglasses with wrap-around coverage and dark lenses are required.

Small first aid and repair kit

  • I’ll have a major first aid and repair kit but you should bring some band-aids, blister protection (include blister pads and duct tape), headache pills, head cold/antihistamine medication, cough drops, rash cream, pocket knife.

Water bottle and/or thermos

  • I usually carry about 1.5 - 2 L of liquids

Extendable walking pole

  • This should be able to collapse small enough to fit into your pack. I may have extras you can use.

Headlamp

  • Bring extra batteries, you may be using this for hours every morning.

Personal toilet kit

  • Include toilet paper, and a baggie for used paper

  • Hand sanitizer is required

  • Ear plugs (for sleeping) and wet wipes are recommended

Camera

  • Consider extra batteries or a portable charging unit.

Clothing systems


Socks, underwear and t-shirts

  • Bring one or two of each. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Long underwear top and bottoms

  • I like a zip-t neck for my long sleeved top. I use lightweight long-johns and a medium weight top. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Climbing pants

  • A soft shell fabric is highly recommended.

Softshell jacket

  • I like a hooded jacket, but it is not absolutely necessary. I avoid heavy fleece garments, as they are not wind-resistant and too warm for many activities. Rather, in cold conditions I will bring two thinner layers: a lightweight softshell and a second lightweight softshell or fleece.

Insulated jacket

  • I prefer a synthetic jacket that is lightweight, warm, and compressible. If you don’t bring one of these there is a good chance you will get cold!

Gore-tex jacket and pants

  • A hooded waterproof jacket and rain-proof pants are required. I prefer the lightweight Gore-tex such as Paclite or Proshell.

Hats

  • A warm toque

  • A sun hat (I prefer a Gilligan type hat)

  • A balaclava for stormy weather and a lightweight toque for use while walking uphill are recommended

Gloves

  • Warm ski-type gloves

  • Single gloves are OK for overnight trips but for multi-day trips, gloves with removable inners (easier to dry) are required

  • A lightweight pair of gloves should also be brought for warm conditions

Gaiters

  • Close-fitting gaiters are required so your crampons don’t snag them as easily. The shorter type gaiters seem to work well even in deeper snow conditions.

camping

Tent or camping van or rv

  • I am be able to supply a tent for a $35/night extra charge.

Sleeping bag

  • A bag rated from to about 0 degrees Celsius is generally all that is needed for camping trips in July and August. Down or synthetic are both fine.

  • For trips in the spring and fall a warmer bag will be required. A bag rated to -10 C is appropriate.

Sleeping pad

  • Any kind will do but I prefer the thicker air mattresses such as the Thermarest Neoair XTherm or Exped SynMat UL for summer.

Street clothes and footwear

  • Your normal around town clothing is nice to have in the campground. Make sure you have warm layers as it can be chilly.

Cooking gear

  • Camp stove, pots, eating utensils.

  • I may be able to supply this for an extra charge.

FOOD

  • You are responsible for your own food unless we have arranged catering for you. Please let me know you if would like the trip to be catered.

phone and charging pack

  • There is spotty cell coverage at the campgrounds. It is better at the information centre, a 5 minute drive away.

  • There is no electricity in the campgrounds so you will need a battery pack to charge your phone.

GROUP GEAR

  • You will be required to carry some of the group gear (rescue equipment, climbing equipment) and you will need room in your pack to do so.

guide gear

I’ll provide…

  • Communications device (radio and/or satellite messenger)

  • GPS, map and compass

  • First aid and repair kit

  • Emergency shelter and evacuation kit

  • Group climbing gear (rope etc)

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